The Admiral's new clothes
What do Freddie Mercury, a Mandarin warrior, Everest explorer George Mallory and Guernsey's own Admiral Sir James Saumarez all have in common? Catherine Kalamis found the answer under one roof at a textile conservation centre in Winchester
What do Freddie Mercury, a Mandarin warrior, Everest explorer George Mallory and Guernsey's own Admiral Sir James Saumarez all have in common? Catherine Kalamis found the answer under one roof at a textile conservation centre in Winchester CLOTHING worn by Admiral Sir James Saumarez at the coronation of King George IV almost 200 years ago lies on a stark white bench in a north-facing room, to protect it from the glare of the autumn sunshine.
The brilliant-red mantle - with a hint of vibrant fuschia - and his ivory silk and silver doublet and breeches are laid out under lamps that magnify the weave and thread, at a unique centre in Winchester.
Here, white-gloved experts are working to conserve the historic fabrics so that the people of Guernsey can enjoy them for many years to come.
It's a fascinating place linked with both celebrity and history.
Resting under fine, crisp tissue paper on the next table to the
admiral's costumes in a studio within the Textile Conservation Centre are more modern garments - a yellow, buckled top and tight, white trousers with a red stripe once worn by the late Freddie Mercury.
They are absolutely tiny, in size and length, which all goes to show how much celebrity clothing provides an insight into its owner, like a living page from Hello magazine. It's not a huge leap from seeing the clothes to imagining the owner in them. And conserving is all about preserving the condition it is in when it comes to the centre - signs of wear and tear are specifically not removed, but retained to add an extra 'human dimension', underlining the fact the clothes were actually worn and used.
Karen Thompson, one of the centre's senior conservators, made the point that the showy garments - despite being created centuries apart - were not dissimilar.Both the admiral's coronation garb and Freddie's jacket and trousers were designed to be flamboyant rather than everyday.
In contrast, on another table lies something much more serious but no less extraordinary.
A Mandarin military outfit studded with bronze buttons and with deep-brown velvet cuffs also lies flat on the conservators benches - only these items are 19th century.
All the clothing is being looked after within pristine studios at the TCC, housed on the campus of the Winchester School of Art, part of the University of Southampton.
The centre specialises in preserving any historic textiles - it could be clothes, wall hangings, carpets or family heirlooms - and has been commissioned by Guernsey's heritage services to preserve the
admiral's clothing for future posterity.
It is the only one in the country that combines a commercial side and an educational facility for students studying for an MA.
Until 1999 the centre was housed at Hampton Court Palace, where it was based for 25 years.
Recently, members of staff were asked to investigate and document the clothing worn by George Mallory, the mountaineer who died in 1924 but whose body was not found on Everest until 1999, in a well-preserved state.
His clothes included many different layers of silk, cotton and wool and the historical analysis of the garments has shed light on whether or not he was properly equipped for mountaineering.
Their work for Guernsey involves ensuring the Admiral's extraordinary garments are protected and don't deteriorate when they go on display to the public at Guernsey Museum this week.
The story of how the Admiral's clothes were saved from sale to America was exclusively told in the Guernsey Press in August.Four conservators were assigned to work on them, meticulously attempting to remove deep stains from the delicate fabrics, so that no further damage was done to the silk cloth. They were also working to strengthen areas of weakness, using a variety of highly specialised techniques.
However, the conservators didn't want to - or intend to - restore the admiral's clothes to look like new.
The stains and signs of wear add interest, history and a hint of character, said Karen, who has worked in Australia, France and Scotland.
It is the colours of the clothing that hit you first Guernsey's most famous sealord and friend of Nelson, wore a magnificent cloak, or mantle, to the coronation of King George IV that is actually more fuschia pink than scarlet when it is viewed up close.
The conservation work gives a fascinating insight into the private side of the admiral. I can reveal that the Sir James - who was probably around five foot 10 inches tall and wore a size seven shoe - undoubtedly dined well at the coronation event, but was not that bothered much about protecting his clothing.
There are spatters of food and possibly drink stains down the front of the doublet, which, if the conservators had more time, could be analysed and may reveal what was on the menu on 19 July 1821.
His extraordinary white leather ankle boots appear very well worn, with deep black scuffmarks, suggesting either a lot of use that day or that they were used again.
Ornate, hand-tied ribbons in fuschia silk still adorn the boots which were hand-made, with the right being larger than the left.
In storage boxes alongside the Admiral's outfit are the pink, red and cream outfits of an esquire, who accompanied the admiral to the coronation. The tiny garments suggest a very trim young man wore them, (trimmer even than Freddie, it seems) - or, I wondered, could it have actually been a woman? They will be conserved after the Admirals' garments are complete and returned to the island in time for Trafalgar Day.
Seeing the clothing close up really brings history alive.
No doubt it will provide the same sort of fascination for visitors to Guernsey Museum from October.Conservation is different from restoration - it aims to clarify and preserve rather than replace. (0245089)
