A river runs through it
LEAVING Cologne behind, our road trip takes us along the Rhine valley. It’s a picturesque ride and you quickly realise that there’s plenty of activity on the river. It’s an ever-changing picture as cruises are very popular and the river is also a vital transport link. Barges quietly plough their way up and down, and trains also follow the valley.
First stop for us has always been Königswinter. It’s less than an hour’s drive from Cologne, but it’s worth stopping for the views from the Drachenfels (‘Dragon’s Rock’). It’s more than 1,000ft high, so unless you want to burn some serious calories, take the Drachensfelsbahn, Germany’s oldest cog railway, to the summit. The views from the top are breathtaking, as Lord Byron testified in his romantic poem. Allow a couple of hours to fully enjoy its beauty.
About an hour’s drive south from Königswinter is Koblenz, often referred to as a gateway to the terraced vineyards and ruined castles of the Rhine Gorge. It’s where the rivers Rhine and Moselle meet and there’s a cable car across the Rhine offering a unique bird’s eye view of the river.
There are plenty of stopping places along the way, but little towns that are definitely worth more than a pit stop include Boppard. Situated on a huge bend of the river, it’s an ideal place to enjoy the ubiquitous kaffee und kuchen, or even stay the night in one of the hotels along the river.
Heading south, you’ll see the aptly named Burg Maus (Castle Mouse) and Burg Katz (Castle Cat) high up on the gorge, two of the many castles that seem to cling to the gorge as you follow the river’s bends.
One place not to miss is the famous Loreley rock, by St Goar. The upper middle Rhine valley is home to many legends and stories, but perhaps the most famous of all is that of Loreley – the beautiful and melancholy siren whose song so enchanted passing sailors that they would neglect to watch out for the treacherous rocks and strong rapids and drown. The ballad was put to music by Friedrich Silcher, ‘Song of the Loreley’, and has since become famous across the world.
Continue south, following the bends of the Rhine, until you reach Rüdesheim am Rhein. It’s definitely worth spending a couple of nights here – there’s plenty of hotels, although early booking is recommended for high season.
Rüdesheim is famous for its wine making, especially Riesling. Less well known, perhaps, is that it is home to the Asbach Uralt brandy factory. The many cafes and bars in Rüdesheim sell Rüdesheimer coffee – coffee with Asbach – in distinctive pink and white cups.
Wander up the Drosselgasse – a narrow, timbered street with restaurants, hotels and shops – and at the top you’ll come to a little station for the gondola lift that takes you to the Niederwalddenkmal, the monument built to commemorate the unification of Germany.
The ride silently and peacefully carries you over the vineyards until you reach the top and are afforded even more views of this spectacular river.
