Beverley Whattam, owner of Artisan Cheesemakers Guernsey in St Saviour’s, has been making cheese for only two years. But her small-scale operation, which started from her home kitchen, has already earned national recognition.
‘I honestly didn’t expect it,’ she said.
The Great Taste awards are judged by an expert panel for the Guild of Fine Food, with more than 15,000 products from 116 countries put through a blind judging process this year.
Mrs Whattam’s Bllu Fromage au Saumur – a soft blue made with Guernsey buttermilk and full-fat milk – received two stars, while her Bllanc Fromage was awarded one star.
Great Taste judging is a way for producers to receive impartial feedback from chefs, buyers, food writers and retailers. Mrs Whattam said she had been hoping only for some of that expert advice, not anticipating, or even registering, the wins as her daughter announced them.
‘I said, “No, can you just read me what the comments say?”’ said Mrs Whattam.
‘It was only about 24 hours later, when those certificates arrived, that it all started sinking in. I just feel so humble.’
Bllu Fromage au Saumur was praised for its ‘perfect balance of indulgence with blue cheese piquancy’, while the judges described Bllanc Fromage as ‘a perfect reflection of Guernsey milk’, with flavours ranging from sweetness to a ‘welcoming citrussy flavour’.
The cheeses were among 6,188 products to receive a Great Taste award this year. A total of 4,286 products received one star, 1,596 received two stars and 306 received the top three-star award.
‘We’re so proud to be adding the prestigious black and gold Great Taste badge of honour to our cheeses,’ said Mrs Whattam.
‘We started in our kitchen on the Aga with very basic equipment. So to be where we are today is truly a dream – I have to pinch myself.’
Mrs Whattam has spent much of her working life in hospitality and previously ran her friend’s Vale-based bed and breakfast, Maison du Bas Villa, where she made yoghurts for guests.
‘I really enjoyed it,’ she said.
‘We’ve done yoghurt here, but we prefer to just do cheese now.’
The operation soon outgrew her kitchen to an old packing shed in her garden. The space has been converted into a dedicated micro-creamery, producing three main cheeses alongside seasonal varieties. Mrs Whattam said the support of other local businesses and producers, including Guernsey Dairy and Surf & Turf, had been hugely important for the development of the business.
‘Being recognised with Great Taste stars means so much to independent producers like us,’ she said. ‘It makes all the hard work and determination worth it.’
Great Taste managing director John Farrand said the awards recognised craftsmanship and dedication to well-sourced local ingredients and traditional, often simple, production methods.
Judges described the local two-star winner as ‘quirky’, and chefs who use it on their menus have said it is like nothing they have ever tasted before. But the idea to create a buttermilk-based cheese had initially raised eyebrows among some Guernsey Dairy staff.
‘They thought I was crazy and that buttermilk would never work,’ said Mrs Whattam.
The cheeses are available directly from Artisan Cheesemakers, as well as from Surf & Turf, Rowan Tree Farm Shop, and Sabre Wine Shop. They are also served on cheeseboards at several local restaurants.